Marrakech! ‹ Claire Dunnington, Writer

Getting from Chefchaouen to Marrakech involved multiple forms of transportation: bus from chaouen to Tangier, taxi from the Tangier bus station to the Tangier train station, overnight train from Tangier to Marrakech, and cab to the Marrakech medina before walking down the narrow streets to find the riad.

The only problem was that you can’t buy train tickets online without a Moroccan credit card, and because of how stressful the bus station in Fes was, we did not go to the train station. That was our first and last opportunity to buy a train ticket in person, since none of the cities in the mountains or desert gave us any opportunity to do so.

The other thing…was that the official website for Morocco’s rail system listed two different departure times for the Tangier-Marrakech train. I gave my phone to the French-speaking manager at the Chefchaouen guesthouse, but she confirmed that there were two different official pages, one listing a departure at 9:05 pm and the other stating 9:55 pm.

And the bus from Chefchaouen to Tangier was know to be a little unpredictable…and it left at 6 pm…and it was supposed to take 2.5-3 hours.

The bus got to Tangier at 9:10. The cab driver taking us from the bus station to train station said “Oh, I think the overnight train leaves at 9,” so when we arrived at the train station and found that not only did the train leave at 9:55 pm (it was 9:30 by that point), AND wasn’t sold out, but ALSO that there were sleeping car tickets left–greatest moment of travel alignment.

Then I took a 10-hour stress nap and woke up in Marrakech. Click through for photos and commentary:

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There is nothing like arriving in a new city in the early morning, not tired because you slept delightfully on a train while traveling great distances.

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The riad in the Marrakech medina. It was beautiful and although there was a little bit of an issue finding our booking, they gave us tea and croissants and that pretty much solves any problem for me.

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Really, even the table was stupidly lovely.

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Window in my room

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Left the riad at 11 am and didn't return until 10 pm. The souks were partially covered, which was good not only for the heat but also for the light patterns.

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Djellabas and other garments

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Hidden nook

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The souks required vigilance because of the motorcycles that constantly zoomed through. They also made the air so heavy with diesel that it was blue where the light hit it.

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Morocco wins at lamps...

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...even considering that I've been to a lamp store called Lamptitude: Turn up your Attitude.

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Morocco also takes best in show for doors.

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Ben Youssef Madrasa

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Closer view of the carvings

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Courtyard of Ben Youssef

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Lego, 8-bit

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Tiles

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A dome

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A doorway

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Another dome

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The caftan I bought in Chefchaouen was ideal for the day in Marrakech: covers everything (good not only for modesty but also sun protection) and feels like nothing